Surfing is My Religion

Dim lights Embed Embed this video on your site

Yep he's pissed...

A week or so ago I was reading this month Wavelength Surf Mags ' eco surfing issue '  while watching the Billabong Pro from Tahitti when the hyprocrissy of it all hit me.   Like others I try and be green, I recycle, I make purchasing decisions based on not using too much plastic etc. However this isn't enough is it?  These efforts are diminutive compared to airflights and a surf holiday.  And as much I might preach on one hand that people should make and effort to look after the planet by switching of their TV while they're not watching it.  Then on the other hand I'm trying to persuade them to buy a new custom surfboard for their surfboard quiver or to by a surfboard board bag and go on a surf trip.  This is how I make my living and how I get to feed my children .

I remember when doing photography at A-level and considering magazine content - the juxtapostion of Sunday Magazines on one page pictures of war and on the next adverts for a brand new BMW.  This is more subtle on one page of the Surfing Mag the call to arms of surfers to lead the protection of the planet - buy less wetsuits, surfboards - on the next page adverts selling wetsuits and surfboards.  This is just a reflection of most of us nowadays, we're torn by this condflict of interests.

Then I thought when you look at it from a distance my carbon footprint is insignifficant from those that I was currently looking at surfing online.  0.01% of their usage.  Maybe it would be better if I we're to stop supporting the ASP and Premiership Football, two things that burn a lot more of the planets resources than my own persuit of a few waves. I won't though as the two are like old friends I can't just forget at the drop of the hat.

So what can I do then.

You now what I'll just go along the way I have a try and make a little more effort every day. Sure I'm not going to give up surf holidays and will probably get a longboard to add my quiver when I have enough money, however I consider these things as just good manners and given mother nature the respect she deserves

* try not to use to much plastic and make purchasing decisions that reflect this

* Recycle as much as possible

* never litter

* never burn plastic

* always walk or cycle to places unless necessaries

* try not to leave electric appliances on if they're not being used.

* keep telling people what I think when they break the above rules.

* remain a Surfers Against Sewage member

If everybody did this would this would this be enough to save the planet.

NO, probably not - but my conscience will be cleaner than most  ....  to be continued

whats your view?

Thanks to work, family life and a building project I have recently have very little spare time.  However thanks to a very understanding wife and the will and commitment  I've managed to get in a fair bit considering.

Once I have a bit more time I've been putting together a list of things I could do to improve my surfing.

* more yoga

* regular indo board sessions

* visualisation of waves

* include pops in a regular routine

* get someone to video me an anaylsis my style

For the moment though my surfing may not be improving by leaps and bounds but I think I should congratulate myself on what I am doing and despite a weekend where I worked 20hrs, spent time with the kids - I still managed 3 surfs, watched plenty of the WCT in Teahupoo 2011 and read some surf mags .

Just a quick footnote of choosing the right surfboard to go in on, which I managed to get right for a change - something that definatley pays off if you have a surfboard quiver.  I've realised that you should decide on which custom surfboard depending on the Surf Report and buoy readings and not on your own thoughts by sight, as it's always bigger than it looks.  I'm thinking of somehow making a diary of my surfs to monitor when I think I get the calls right and which ones I get wrong.

Here's a pic of the beach last night

I have to say ' I love Boardmasters Festival ' - where else can you go surfing every morning and then check out Surfing, Skating, BMXing and not to mention the bands for the rest of the day.

Dim lights Embed Embed this video on your site

How amusing is it though to hear people winging about the water temperature in August !! How they would run in mid January when those cold winds push against my 5mm wetsuit and I'm chanting in my own head 'Man Up!' .

After watching the BMXing and Skateboarding then it's obvious that these top athletes have had to really push themselves through the pain barrier to be where they are and to do what they do.  And in these sports are very rarely rewarding  financially.   In an interview I read with Ben Skinner who became European Longboard Champion at this event he hinted about it being a lifestyle decision and his business Skindog Surfboards would enable him to provide for his family and give him the opportunity to continue to Longboard but unlikely to make a fortune. 

It's this type of commitment that pays off though and make those drops, cut backs, turns possible when it comes to the summer.  Coming to Newquay for Boardmasters its good seeing those who have put in the time and are reaping the rewards.  Fairplay to you all I raise my cap, and between now and the next Boardmasters I will try and emulate your commitment and improve my game and push my surfing too.

Below is a pick of Klaxons headlining the Friday night, which with Stanton Warriors and Krafy Kuts was my highlights of the music festival - Highlights that the others I went with and was supposed to be meeting up with missed thanks to booze, hash cakes, the rain and a sleepless night - shame on you all - but the rewards for pushing through and avoiding over doing it where grand indeed :D

Check the Newquay Surf Directory for the latest information from Newquay.